How to Check How Bad It Is
Take a metal comb (not a slicker brush — it glides over the top) and work it gently to the skin. Small, loose tangles that the comb passes through with a little help are home territory. Felted lumps the comb cannot enter, mats close to the skin, or matting across large areas — that's professional territory.
Mats form first in the friction zones: behind the ears, armpits, groin, under the collar or harness, and between the back legs. Check those spots weekly.
What You Can Do at Home
For loose tangles: hold the hair between the mat and the skin (so you're not pulling the skin), and work through the edge of the tangle with a comb, a little at a time, starting from the tips. A detangling spray helps. Stop if your dog gets distressed — forcing it teaches them grooming hurts.
Never use scissors on a mat. Mats sit tighter to the skin than they look, and skin tents up into them when pulled. Groomers regularly see scissor wounds from well-meaning owners. If a comb can't fix it, clippers in trained hands are the safe tool.
What a Groomer Will Do
A professional will assess whether dematting is fair on the dog. A few isolated mats can be worked out or clipped out invisibly. Widespread tight matting means one humane answer: clip the coat short below the mats and start fresh. It can be a shock to see — but coats grow back, and the relief for the dog is immediate.
Never bathe a matted dog before this decision: water tightens mats like wet wool and makes everything worse.
Prevention Is 10 Minutes a Week
Line-brushing the friction zones twice a week, plus a professional groom every 5–8 weeks, keeps virtually any coat mat-free. If you own a doodle, Cockapoo, Bichon or Shih Tzu, prevention isn't optional — see our doodle coat guide and grooming frequency guide.